the surfer's journalI learn so much from friends

I admire their
passion / POV

I carefully study their technique,
approach to subject matter,
visual communication

Tyler Manson,
a friend and filmmaker
has influenced my awareness
of composition and storytelling
in the film format

quiet, minimal, intimate
even for the
non-surfer, you find
yourself wanting to listen

I have learned that
like architecture, surfing
is an art and science

its about design,
proportions relative
to nature and the zen
of letting it all go to
catch the wave

1. Terry Martin
2. Dan Malloy & Dane Reynolds
3. Richard Kenvin

leonardo da vinci
vitruvian man, 1487